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Found 8 results

  1. heloo

    My name is Washington so the Brazil game and just survive
  2. Since people have been asking in the servers and on the forums lately on if they could become an admin, or how to become one I will explain this briefly here. We do not just give out admin to anyone. They need to earn our trust first and foremost. We used to have "admin assistants" but that has been terminated since the beginning of the 2014 year. The only way to progress in the process to becoming an admin is to do the following: 1. Apply to become a member of ADK HERE.  2. After becoming accepted you will have access to a Member Only section of the forums. Within that section you will find an application for BF3 Admin.  This is the ONLY way to become an admin for Battlefield 3 (or any of our games for that matter). So, if you feel like you would like to help out, feel free to apply.    Check out Member Ranks and Roles HERE
  3. Ok im kinda looking to become a admin for planetside2 or just a teamspeak admin. I have a ton of ts3 admin experience. I admined for a sorta big community of about 25-30 people for a two years. So i was just wondering what the requirements were and if i meet them. Thank You :D 
  4. No one will probably read this or think it's useful, but I have free time and I thought I would lend a hand to the new guys.  (If you're a forum lover like me, then you obviously shouldn't have a problem with this.) So, I have heard from a few applicants/soon-to-be applicants that they are confused about 20 forum posts. For some reason some think it has to be 20 started posts (threads), some don't know how to post without spamming, and others are just confused in general, so I'm going to break this down. Post #1- Introduce Yourself! This is by far the most important first post you can create. It lets the community know who you are. In this post talk about what games you play, that way others who play the same game as you will respond and say, "hey man! I play *insert game here* as well! hop on Teamspeak and join us sometime!" If you're too uncomfortable with sharing some information, i.e.: age, location, etc. That's okay. (A few posts after number one can be responding to those who comment on your introduction thread.) Next Post- Member Application. Yes, I said member application. Unless you're a hacker, or a troll, there's no reason why we wouldn't want you to become apart of this amazing community.  Alright, now you're up to about 5 posts or so. So now what? Well, I'm glad you asked.  At the very top of the screen on the right hand side you will see Site Links. Under that tab you will see View New Content. This is by far the easiest way to help with your post number. Just make sure you don't spam. What I mean is, say something constructive. If it's less then four words, chances are it's probably spam.  "What should I look for under View New Content?" The best thing would be to go to the forum section in which games that you play exist here on the forums. I.E.: Planetside 2, Battlefield 3, Battlefield 4, ArcheAge, DayZ.  Last but not least, do not be afraid to start your own thread!  Thanks for reading.
  5. Some of us use TTS and some of us don't on team speak. What would be great is if everybody actually listened to their phonetic name before they joined the server to hear what those of us who have TTS on have to listen to. Yes I can change it on my end and I normally end up doing that. But it would still be great if you guys could do it yourself before you join. So how do you do it? Well there are a few different ways. First way: Settings - - > Identities - - > Phonetic Nickname (Make sure you reconnect if you are connected to the server already) Second Way: Self - - > Set Phonetic Nickname - - > Listen to it, and play around with it to make it sound like you want. Now for the important part, while it's fun to change it sometimes it can go too far sometimes. So if you make it something inappropriate you'll be asked to change it. If you make it something long and annoying you'll be asked to change it. If you don't do either of those, you will be kicked. If you don't change it again, you'll be temp banned and then perma banned. We ask that you change your phonetic nickname so people who are using TTS know who you are when you enter a channel without even looking at their TS. It'll create a better environment for everyone, plus we're able to pick out those people who love to spam TS constantly especially when their phonetic is a mess. So if you do this I know many people will appreciate it, not just myself! And for that I want to say Thanks! If you want to know how to change someones phonetic name on your end, let me know and I'll help ya out! Thanks again!
  6. So in the past few weeks we have removed "=ADK= Member" status from a few people on the website, and I have a feeling we will continue to do so. If you have had the "=ADK= Member" status removed on the website, it is because you have removed =ADK= from your name and no longer play with the =ADK= tag to represent the community. Some people have also decided to go join another clan or community. While we are fine with people moving on or wanting to go somewhere else, we at least appreciate a little communication. Something many people don't realize is we are also fine with people being a part of multiple communities, we just need some form of representation. To those of you who have had the tags removed due to lack of communication and want to get those tags back you will need to fill out another recruitment form and let us know why you want to be a part of the community again. It's not fair to let people come and go as they please and have access to everything that the =ADK= Members have, when you don't even represent the community. So again, if you do happen to no longer represent the community by wearing the =ADK= tags do not be surprised if you don't have "=ADK= Member" status on the website. Thank you
  7. Win a 4v5

    It's quite easy, and lately there's been a lot of them. Right from the start someone DC's and so it ends up being 4 v 5. Well the easiest way to win is just relax, don't rage, and tell your team that you guys will win. The 3 games that I've had someone DC from the start my team has won them all, and the other team ends up being in shock. The moral of this post is, if anyone on your team is raging (you included) you're never going to win. Have a positive vibe and work even more as a team. I find that sometimes a team of 4 who actually works harder ends up being better than the team of 5 just because of the fact that you are RARELY typing to your team where as when you have 5 if it's a little more relaxed and people might not be as focused. So always be positive no matter what the situation is for your team. As I've said from the beginning of me actually being decent at LoL, if anybody on your team is negative, more often than not your team will lose. So think positive!
  8. Case redo part 1

    So with bandit redoing his case, brought up an idea to post a few how-to that may help anyone else who may want to undertake this project. I have googled around and found a few, but most of them are pretty top end and expensive. So here we go! Generally speaking you have to common materials that manufactures use to make their cases with, of course plastic is always used, steel and aluminium. It is important to know the difference as the steps will differ. Aluminium cases= Generally on good to top quality cases and is the preferred material. Light weight, strong, and easy to work with. Draw backs are price, and more apt to corrosion with in the manufacturing process. Almost no product will be made with pure aluminum as it would be to soft to do much with. So they put alloys into the aluminum to make it more ridged and increase tinsel strength. This process can induce inter-granular corrosion and over time your case will have issues, but this process takes years to fester and degrade the product enough to matter. Usually the types used are 7075 and 6065 (Google them if you would like more information of the material used, but is way out of the scope of these posts) with varying hardness, ranging from "0" to T6. T6 would be about as hard as you can get aluminum and still able to work it past a flat shape. T3 is the most common, and 0 is used for many configurations and major bends and twists but is then oven baked to a higher T (or hardness) as 0 is a step above foil (depending on thickness). Steel cases= Generally on cheap to inexpensive cases. Not desired for a few reason. First and foremost, generally used at a really thin gauge and flimsy, causing flexing and exaggerates vibration through out the case. This can cause premature failure of your PC components, including, but not limited too, GPU as the vibration on your mobo, and the GPU acting as a lever (the way it is installed, plus the huge size now days) so the vibration is multiplied on the outer edge of your card. If your running a large CPU cooler, same effect, but coolers are a lot heavier and have a smaller contact point, plus the added factor of the cooler fan. Your PSU can also be effected as heat can weaken the soldered joints and connections with the vibration frequencies causing them to pull out or apart. Bottom line, get a quality case! So we will go the way of aluminum! Plastic= Used in all cases. quality can range drastically, even in the same case. Even the poorest of quality is refinished in the same way though. To achieve an out standing quality finish will take more money then elbow grease though. I will go over this first as it may be the most unknown to properly re-finish plastic, rubber, or other composite/man made material. We must assume your plastics are undamaged and in good shape. With damage of any kind the requirements change drastically. Also keep in mind I am use to having the required hazardous material readily available, so you will have to do some research on what material is available to use and follow directions on the product, which may very slightly or a lot, as some are more earth friendly and generally don't work as well. Take your un-assembled plastic parts and wash then very well, water would shed off and not bead up, to remove any oil and containment. Insure the plastic does not have a finish all ready, even just in sections, as this will require further steps if they do. With then washed, use a clean towel to dry then, do not touch your plastics with your bare hands, or other body parts as this puts oil back on to the plastic and can cause bubbling in your paint finish. If your plastics have no finish already, use a chemical clean/prep for the area you would like to paint as per the directions. You should NOT have to sand or scuff the area as this will leave gouges and marks that you will see through the painted finish. Painting on plastic only leaves a thin layer and any surface damage will be seen. The chemical cleaner should prep the surface for you causing the plastic to "soften up" so your paint will "stick" better. If you require more then one color, now is the time to tape areas off. Use top quality painters tape, going cheap here will cause major issues and you will hate the results. You may once again use the chemical prep if the time between use and paint has expired or to insure cleanliness. try to use a quality plastic paint, as it has chemicals that allow the outer shell of the paint to harden but still pliable so it will not crack. But any top quality paint will work if you can not find the colors you want, and to insure proper color match to the aluminum part of your case. *NOTE= If you are using a 2 part kit (mixing your paint) and a sprayer, try to mix all your paint for your whole case at once, with the required color, as slightly different mix, temp, batches(cans), and humidity will affect the color of your dried finish, and might be noticeable!**** If you have taped of areas, spray a fine mist, not a full coat, over your area. This misting will help seal the edge of your tape and reduce the chance of "bleed through" causing a horrible edge. Allow to dry at least 15 minutes NO MORE THEN 30 MINUTES. If your unsure if your misting was good enough, re mist the whole area (doing the whole painted area vs just the edge insures uniform paint color). then apply a full coat, wait 15-20 minutes between coats for the paint to set up. Once you are done, and happy with the color and coating. Pull your tape as soon as possible. This makes sure you don't pull some of your new finish with your tape. and you then can clean any bleed through if required, and judge your misting, for your next job you'll have a better idea how much more to mist the areas. If the taped area is getting painted a different color, the bleed through is not an issue. If it is NOT, you need to clean the bleed paint ASAP. Using the cleaner, or mineral spirits (test the mineral spirits on a piece of the same plastic where you can't see to insure it doesn't damage the plastic). **** NOTE= if your painting multiple colors, like white with black accents, and your plastic is red, paint the whole thing black, then tape of the black areas, and paint your white color. But typically you want light colors as your base, and dark over your base. Dark colors hide light colors better that are underneath, requiring less paint and time. So if your case is white and you want black and yellow. Paint the yellow first, then tape of the areas you want black and paint them black.********* Wait at least 48 hours for your paint to dry (some paints actually take up to a year to fully dry) even if the directions say 12-24. This hopefully will insure that your tape will not pull of or damage your new paint when you remove it. Insure your area you will apply your other colors is clean again, take special care to insure any tape residue is removed and cleaned. If you had major bleed over, you will need to scuff the painted area with very fine steel wool or 2000 grit sand paper, and re clean. If the tape residue will not come off bare plastic, you may need to use steel wool, though not preferred, or mineral spirits. Tape and paint again. Misting, misting, then apply the required layers to achieve the desired finish. Remember to gently pull tape as soon as you can. Allow to dry as long as you can, 24-48 hours before assembly. Aluminum refinish with in the next few days!

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